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Como Cathedral (different angle)

Como Cathedral (different angle)

In Bergamo, make for the walled hilltop mediaeval centre to feast on ancient buildings and art. In Brescia, head for its impressive Roman ruins, while in Cremona, home of Stradivarius, wonder at the art of violin making, still alive today. For serenity, go to Mantua but avoid its outlying industrial sprawl. In Como, apart from yet more shopping, you can see baroque, gothic, romanesque and renaissance construction in one building – the cathedral.

All of the big towns have nightclubs and casinos, but these are set up for young people in the first instance, and middle-aged people with too much spare cash in the second. For most, the greatest pleasure is to be found in the views, the people and the peace, particularly during weekdays. The food, though sometimes expensive, is another great draw – particularly the lakefish. When we return, I’m going to seek out our patient waiter and tell him that I now know that the lakefish are alborelle. They’re found only in Lake Como – and very tasty when grilled and served with a light, garlicky sauce.

10 top tips

  • Shopaholics beware – Como is the centre of the Italian silk industry, Milan the centre of jewellery manufacture and the fruits of both are sold in the pretty little shops thronging the lakeside villages. As with everything else in this area, prices aren’t cheap but the value is fantastic and you’ll find beautiful things that never make their way to the UK.
  • Buy your souvenirs away from the lakeside, where shop rents on the shore are very high and prices are accordingly steep.
  • Try the local wines. It’s the best value there is – out-of-area wines of the same quality can be twice or three times as costly. Ask the wine waiter for his or her opinion. Usually, they are pleased to be consulted and proud of their region.
  • If you want to go to a particular restaurant, always book. If you want to return, tip generously – that’s the difference between a table by the loo and one by the lake.
  • Check local opening times by telephone before setting off – the official published times are not reliable. If you have travelled two hours to see a particular museum or church, only to find it’s shut, you’ll be annoyed. We were.
  • When driving, remember that buses are bigger than cars. All Italian bus drivers know this and drive accordingly.
  • Bring your walking boots, golf clubs, surfboards or water skis. You can also hire sail and motor boats. Forget about lounging on beaches – there aren’t any.
  • Pack a brolly – even in summer, thunderstorms can be torrential. At night, they are spectacular. Find a bar and watch the lightning. Storms usually last no longer than half an hour.
  • If you are feeling particularly flush, treat yourself to a dinner on the terrace of the Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio, which has the best view in northern Italy. But book two months ahead to guarantee a table.
  • If you like a bar, stick with it. After a few days, you’ll find you’re one of the regulars and will be offered free drinks and appetisers.
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